Today felt like a long, grueling day in the kayak. However, it was the best day day for nature sightings, yet. This morning, around 8:00 A.M. I pulled in to a small cove. The waves/current had been intense.I needed to hydrate and rest after two hard hours of paddling. The shore was a bit eerie. Welcoming me on land was what I believe to be a decapitated barricuda head. This fish head had an absessed tooth, almost like a horn, protruding from its head, pre-historic looking. I also saw two sizeable crabs hanging out on the shore. Heading back out to the ocean, I was admittedly battling to get past the break. In conditions like these, I keep it as close to the shore as possible for safety reasons. I had made it not 25 feet out, when I discerned a sizeable shadow in a wave. Excited, I thought I was about to have another stingray sighting. Then the sharks dorsal fincame out of the water. Shit! Paddle! Paddle! Disengage! Paddle! Paddle! I'm not positive on the size of the shark, probably 7-8 ft. But I can tell you it made me, paddling a 10ft. Kayak, divert paths quickly. I was amazed at the size of the shark, considering our close proximity to shore. A bit further north I had a great dolphin exchange. The dolphin flipped over and I could see him clapping hissmallbellysideflippers. He followed me for a bit. Finally, I saw two pink flamengos take flight out of the mangroves. I've found my camping spot for the evening; I'm feeling drained. I intend to wake up early tomorrow and put another 20 miles behind me. Look forward to joining family friends Joel/Brandi on the waters outside of Marathon the following day (Friday).
Wednesday, April 30, 2014
Tuesday, April 29, 2014
Exnay on the KOA Campgrounday
I just phoned ahead to the KOA campground on Sugerloaf, in order to make a tent camping reservation. The reservation attendent informed the the price to pitch a tent for one night, with no hook-ups, is $73. That is exorbitant! Is this a federally owned campground or private?
Oh well, thank you KOA, for you have steered me towards pitching my tent in remote territory, with the only price being my labor and$1 of Off bug repellent. I'll even have the sounds of nature!
Monday, April 28, 2014
"Danger" Eco-Tour; Key West
The "Danger eco-tour"is the way to explore the pristine waters around Key West. Adventure guides Dale and Wade took our small group out on a beautiful wooden sailboat named "Danger". In route, Wade CPT'd the boat while Dale regailed us with the history of Key West commerce and marine life, which was a stimulating way to sail out. We proceeded to dawn "Adventure"s" snorkel gear and Dale led a marine life tour. We saw nurse sharks, a giant stingray, lobster, angel fish, and a variety of small fish. We also toured around an island by kayak. I know.... more kayaking.....what was I thinking! It was great, and enjoyable to go at a leisurely pace. The boat was stocked with Yuengling, wine, and spirits. The guys also cut up gratuitous amounts of fresh fruit, had a zesty salsa on hand, and wonderful Sabra hummus, both pinenut and chili pepper. After the eco tour, I returned to Adam and Maggie's house. Adam and I wrote two songs w/ lyrics on the guitar: "Soot Foot", a testimony to the condition one's feet acquires when they are your only carriage around Key West (emancipating) and "Lawn Gnome Girl" a testimony to Adam and his fiance Maggie. Adam and Maggie will be departing Key West this July, in order to persue their dream of playing music for a living while touring the U.S.
I depart Key West tomorrow. I've decided that Boulder, CO and Key West, FL are my two favorite cities in the U.S. Key West is chalk full of eccentrics, bohemian restaurants, and a truly vibrant and alive culture, coupled with ideal weather, ensconced in natural beauty. I understand why Hemingway called it home.
Sunday, April 27, 2014
Acro-Yoga on Key West
Today I sojourned into Acro-Yoga, which stands for acrobatic yoga. I highly recommend it; the possibilities here are endless. The pictures below are as follows:
Pic # 1: I'm providing a base for Maggie, as she perfects the "flying woman"
Pic #2: Adam, Maggie's fiance, provides a base while I work on my "flying man"
Up, up in the air Junior bird man, flying high over the mountains, over the tree trops. It's a bird, it's a plain, no.... I think it's flying man.
Ernest Hemingway's House- Key West, FL
Earnest Hemingway's home is an open, airy, and inspiring location. Pictures below include Hemingway's study, where he did much of his writing. Always a man of sport a leisure, Hemingway had a fantastic sprawling pool. I was also able to fine one a Hemingway cat descendent sleeping in the garden. I find the living cats to be more interesting than Hemingway's cat cemetary. I was reminded that during WWI, Hemingway was an Italian military ambulance driver, not U.S., as I had previously thought. Evidently, poor health had precluded him from U.S. military service in WWI.
Maggie Mae
I met my new buddie, Maggie, at her place of work, the "Help Yourself, Oganic Cafe/Juice Bar/ Market, where I enjoyed a great organic breakfast on Key West. Maggie and her fiance are into Acro-Yoga (acrobatic yoga) and playing music. I loof forward to trying out acro-yoga. Maggie and I have the Kansas connection. Maggie is from Hutchinson KS and I'm from Olathe.
Saturday, April 26, 2014
Fort Zachary Taylor- Key West
The trails around Fort Zachary Taylor are great for biking or walking. I chose to bike. Fort Zachary Taylor is a haunting tribute to U.S. Naval history. With a great view of the sea, its structural integrity is well maintained. While at the Fort, one can expect to see ancient corridors with cannons facing out to sea, an example of an 1842 communal comode, multiple brigs, sleeping quarters, and a colloseum of a courtyard.
Key West Iconic Landmarks
After procuring my bi-pedal transportation, I headed out to the following two iconic Key West landmarks. It feels good to be travelling by leg/foot.... My shoulders/arms/biceps are revelling in the temporary usage reprieve.
Landmark #1: The southermost point of the United. States, denoted by the multi-colored cylindrical cone. Cuba is 90 miles out from here. Any interested sponsors for a kayak to Cuba trip? It could be a philanthropic adventure/ tax write off...... come on guys! When I was commercial fishing for Halibut in the Bearing Sea, we cruised way out on the Alutian islands. According to " Cpt John", we were two days by boat from Russia. This is as for North in the U.S. that I plan to make it. Now I've traveled to the southernmost destination:-)
Landmark #2: Mile marker 0 on HWY 1. This is where HWY 1 ends. " this is the end, my only friend, the end". (Jim Morrison). "The end is our only guarantee, best to be self-actualized in the meantime" (JCK)
Going Mobile
Key West Arrival!
Last night was munemental. After embarking by kayak from John Pennekamp on 19 APR 2014, I landed on the southernmost tip of Key West, 25 APR 2014. My landing was far from ordinary, and "kayak trail magic" was present. So, far from my previous knowledge, the Southern Point of Key West is Officer housing for our South and Central American military coalition partners. After locking my kyak to a tree, I sauntered over to Louis, a Navy Pilot from Panama,and his wife's home. Louis informed me they thought I was a Navy Seal practicing a beach landing; not sure if the beard, fluency in Spanish, 6 ft, or the speargun convinced them of this. Lousis asked for my military I.D. Fortunately, I had it in my dry box. Louis's wife informed me that there was a Navy Hotel close by. How fortuitous! Louis drove me over to the Navy Gateway Inn and Suites, located on Naval Air Station Key West, FL. I've checked in at the lap of luxury through this Monday Morning. I'm nursing a bit of sunburn, a right shoulder which feels like pins have been inserted into it, and a diaper rash on my arse which puts a section 8 housing diaper rash to shame.
Notes: 1. Sitting in a wet kayak for six days is not conducive to fending off rashes.
2. Navy Gateway Inn and Suites (Key West) is the best deal going on Key West..... $60 a night for a fantastic room, recently renovated, equipped with Kurig machine stocked w/ coffee pods, free laundry, friendly staff, etc.... People are paying $300-500 a night for accomodations on or near Duval street, which is within five blocks of the Navy Gateway.
3. I look forward to playing U.S. diplomat to Louis and his wife this evening; I'm taking them out to dinner. They are an incredibly kind Panamanian partner Officer family, who exhibited extreme genuine helpfulness and kindness towards me, a U.S. Army Officer. Apparently, I missed the "U.S. Navy property Stay 100 Feet Away" sign, posted on the shoreline to our allies military housing neighborhood. The current there around the southern tip of Key West is serriously strong willed. Must have some Army SOCOM pull to it;-) Fuck ya!
Pictures below were taken of me upon arrival to the Gateway hotel: sunburnt, exhausted, dirty.... and happy as hell to have arrived for some R & R.
Friday, April 25, 2014
Sugerloaf KOA Campground = Narcotics Anonymous "Spiritual Retreat"
Last night, after chatting with Jerry and Nancy, I headed on S. To the KOA campground on Sugerloaf. I landed on the sand volleyball court. I was met by a beautiful women who had never kayaked. I gave her a quick lesson, and she was a natural. When I made my way to the office, the attendent informed me that the KOA was closed to the public, as "narcotics anonymous" was hosting a spiritual retreat. Needless to say, I don't believe this crew planned to smoke any paote around the campfire on this evening. I headed south. I'm currently around mile marker 20. Key West or bust, today!
Jerry, Nancy, and Peekaboo
As I write from my tent, on the morning of 4/26, the last 36 hrs have been full of adventure, chance encounters, and interesting happenings. I wasn't tired the evening of the 24th, so I decided to continue kayaking into the night. Night Land navigation on the Gulf proved exceedingly difficult. My energy and time are better spent kayaking during the daylight hours. The Gulf side hosts a labrinthe of islands, being caught in between them without a GPS, and attemptint to terrain associate by night is not recommended. Night kayaking is much easier on the Atlantic side. Yesterday, I had the good fortune of meeting Jerry, Nancy, and their dog Peekaboo. The trio is from New Jersey, winter on the island of Cudjoe, and will return to NJ next week. Jerry and Nancy invited me to join me on their dock, I most enjoyed the chat. Nancy re-filled my water jug (w/ ice), made me a delicious sandwhich, and I drank a beer with Jerry. Good karma for these kind folks!
Jerry and Nancy have the honor of naming the two islands across the bay from them: the islands of "Out Key" and "venture Key", collectively known as the "venture out" keys". (Pictured below). Jerry and Nancy went through the bureau of terrain features in D.C. All said, it took about 1 1/2 yrs to get their islands named. Jerry wrote the following poem about his islands: Venture Out Keys, Oh little Islands off shore, you never had a name before, to go through life is such a state, would surely be a big mistake, think of all the sunrises you have seen, and all the sunsets in between,of all the boats that have passed you by, and all the sunsets in the sky,all the birds that called you home, until they left the world to roam, Venture Key and Outkey too, are the names I chose for you, Let's hope that they will suit you fine, and be with you until the end of time. ( written by Gerald Nixon)
Wednesday, April 23, 2014
Marathon to the 7 Mile Bridge and Beyond
Today was a Marathon kayaking session, repleit with interesting sightings, both in and out of the water. A stingray, with white spots on its back, two nurse sharks, and a sea turtle were today's marine sightings. The sea turtle was of particular interest, as it popped up beside my boat to say hello. Then I Kayaked along the 7 mile hi-way. I've landed in Big Pine Key.... mile marker 31, which denotes 71 miles down, 31 miles to go fow Key West. I'll be leaving " Springer's Bar" now, in order to do chip away at the 31 miles. I'll find an island to sleep on tonight. My goal is to be in a cozy hotel in Key West tomorrow night, with time to relax and explore Fort Zachary the following day.
Three Amigos and the Wooden Spoon
Around 9:00 this morning I was ravenous, having already paddled for three hrs. I saw some laborers outside working on a dock, so I pulled up, hoping to receive directions to a restaurant. Able to utilize my Spanish, I chatted up Jose and his crew of two. Jose gave me a ride to the iconic "Wooden Spoon" restaurant on Marathon. The Wooden Spoon has been in existence since 1952, and under its name since 1973. Enjoyed a Spinich omelette, picked up some eloctrolyte heavy drinks, and headed back out to sea.
Kayakingto Marathon
Yesterday, 4/23, on my way to Marathon, I had the pleasure of meeting surfer 'Jackie' and her amazing water dog 'Buka'.... who seemed the antithesis of 'dhuka', as he happilly frolicked about the water. Jackie was in no need of a tug boat back to shore, as she's trained Buka to tug her back. Jackie spends her days, no more than 2-3 per week, substitute teaching in marathon and property managing for a Canadian doctor on Conch Key. Great person, enjoying life with her canine. Jackie and her partner have resided on Conch Key since 1992.
Tent Camping
I've spent the last two night's tent camping at remote spots. While in sore need of a shower, I'm pleased with my resourcefulness/frugality. Due in main part, to my mechanical ineptitude, I had a difficult time setting up the poles for the front part...... so I rigged it with string, in order to counter against what I identified as an immenent structural demise. Spent last night 4/23 camping on a private island. It was me, the birds, and twosizeable iguanas. When I woke this morning, I identified that my tent had been targeted by organic seagull strafings overnight. I took the cue and departed at 0630 this morning, 4/24.
Kayaking the Conch
Yesterday was a pleasurable day kayaking Conch Key. The shorline was repleit with stacked lobster traps, but the most memorable catch was Laurie and her son Matthew, who own the delicatessen inside the Bayside Inn Motel. If traveling through Conch Key, visiting Laurie and Matthew is a must. Laurie makes a mean gyro and thick stacked grilled ham sandwhich. Laurie and Matthew were a pleasure to chat with. She sent me off with water jug filled, complimentary fruit for the voyage, and a seram wrapped ham sandwhich. See Laurie, Matthew, and the lobster traps of Conch Key inthe associated imagery.
Zen and the Art of Kayaking
After departing Bob's Bunz this morning, I paddled down a scenic channel, canopied and walled by mangroves. After paddling across a choppy bay I landed on what appeared to be a jetty of Islamorada.
I walked down "Spanish Steps" to access a private swim in the cove. I dawned snorkel gear, dive knife, and speargun. The dive knife and speargun were not for hunting, but rather to defend against a possible shark attack. After swimming around for a little bit, it. felt too much like a "movement to contact". So.... I traded my weapons for my yoga mat, sat in the sun, and enjoyed zen meditation instead. Then I gave a devotion to Ra for the great sunshine today and thanked Poseidon for making the seas safe. My Wilderness Kayak 120 is proving its worth. While a larger kayak would probably be smoother, while also hosting more storage capacity, my 120 is reliable and keeps water out of the storage hold. I'm happy to have found a free place to camp tonight. Update on the digs in the morning.
Monday, April 21, 2014
Bob's Bunz- Mile Marker 82
Getting a late start today w/ breakfast at Bob's Bunz on Islamorada. I've acqired detailed waterproof maps of the upper and lower keys. GPS out.... maps, terrain association, and compass in. I'm on the Gulf Side of Islamorada, near mile marker 82. Today I continue south. There are many islands that I will need to make my way around... today will be one of the more challenging navigational days. However, I'm well rested, fed, hydrated, and outfitted with the appropriate eqipment to navigate. Feels good to have the proper gear. As usual, one can only do so much preparation. You really figure out what works when in the saddle moving forward.
Sunday, April 20, 2014
La Jolla Resort in Islamorada
It's 3:00 PM Easter Sunday and I've checked in to the La Jolla resort on Islamorada. After covering 20 miles in 21 hrs I'm exhausted. If I were to keep this pace up, and weather held, I would complete my Keys circumnavigation in 10-12 days. After having my beach slumber interrupted by "Billy the Preacher, at 0330 and "Eastern Ireland Paradaise Cafe for breakfast".... I proceeded to haul ass until 3:00 PM this afternoon. Today a spied a jumping Marlin, sting ray, and multiple seagulls, while thinking about sharks.
My right hand is beginning to develop a blister. Working through it is the plan for now... I'll save the mits for paella, later. Big event for the day was the lost capability of my nautical GPS. Somehow the GPS slipped under my seat and the screen cracked, rendering it unreadable. I'll drop by the Marina tomorrow, in the hope that they have waterproof NOAA Keys maps in stock. I'm looking forward to the purist challenge of navigating by map and coast line. Screw digital.... makes the mind weak:-) But Blogspot sure is fun!
Feliz Easter/4-20 from Easter Island
Hello from Easter Island. I celebrated Easter this morning on my own private island..... shared only with the seagulls and their organic presents. I left one for them too;-) Ate brkfst on the island: avocado, cashews, tamarindos, coffee with sterno heated H20, and my vitamins. Think I see a creek which will take me over to the Gulf side, still on the Atlantic. Going against the Northbound current has not been difficult. OBJ Islamorada is the goal for today. Should be about 9 miles from current location on Easter Island. Hoping to locate another private island to celebrate this Easter Sunday/4-20 and read Dad (Greg Kincaid's) latest book, " Tantric Coconut". Wishing I had brought a uke to strum.
Happy Easter
Around 1100 P.M. last night, I pulled my kayak over some imposing rocks, assuredly emplaced to keep beach crashers like myself out, and settled down next to my kayak for some shut eye. At 3:30 A.M a truck w/ a sizeable trailer backs in. They commence to begin setting up: stage, lights, instruments. I chose the spot where preacher "Billy Bob" plans to host today's Easter mass. I will not be in attendence. No coffee. I'm heading South in my kayak.
Saturday, April 19, 2014
Mark "Kayaking Guide" at John Pennekamp
Mark, an awesome dude and kayaking guide at John Pennekamp State Park gave me waterway directions on how to paddle out of the park and into the Keys. Mark has the distinction of being one of the few people ever to be attacked by a North American crocodile. Mark was overturned in his kayak by the Croc and survived the encounter. Lucky bloke!
Departure Launch- John Pennekamp
Here I am standing before my kayak just prior to launching into this nautical quest, at John Pennekamp State Park.
